Gnocchi di Ricotta e Cavolo Nero
When I think of gnocchi, I usually think of potatoes. Sweet potatoes, too, but generally standard white potatoes. But in reality, gnocchi is quite a broad group, and across Italy’s regions, they take on many forms and can be made from a variety of vegetables, flours, cheeses, and even breads. I can’t remember exactly where I first heard of gnocchi di ricotta, but the concept blew my mind. There’s no potato involved whatsoever; the base is just cheese and flour. I added them to my ever-expanding list of things to make, and didn’t give them much thought again until one recent trip to the farmer’s market.
I should pause here to gush over the farmer’s market a bit. It’s a sort of Monday ritual, and it makes me incredibly happy. In the early afternoon, I bike on over, and can get a whole bag full of delicious, local products for 10-15 euros. I like to start my weekly shopping there, and supplement at the supermarket.
Since we are headed into winter, the availability of some of my usual staples like eggplant, tomato, cucumber, and zucchini are starting to disappear. Some stalls still (somehow) stock them, but that’s how I know I prefer to shop somewhere else.
On this particular trip, I went with no plan in mind, only to take inspiration from what I found. I started out at my favorite organic stall, run by a small farm only 20 minutes outside of town. I got red kohlrabi, leeks, lacinato kale, and another variety of kale (the big green head in the middle) that I can’t remember the name of. Next, I stopped by the truck selling eggs, and took six. These eggs are so fresh, and the chickens clearly so healthy, that the yolks often appear a reddish-orange. Then, mushrooms from the mushroom man, honey from the honey lady, and half a loaf of Italian sourdough (lievito madre) bread from the bakery truck. Finally, I made my way to the dairy truck, where you can get milk, yogurt, cheeses, and the best ice cream in town. I picked up a tub of ricotta, so fresh and preservative-free that it spoils within a few days of opening.
At this point, I was thinking to make some sort of green stuffed pasta with a ricotta filling, but by the time I got home, I decided to try the gnocchi di ricotta instead, and with some cooked kale incorporated in the dough. I settled on a recipe that is kind of a cross between Tuscan gnudi and the malfatti of Emilia-Romagna.
These gnocchi are incredibly light thanks to the ricotta, and have a delicate flavor from the kale. To make them, you will need:
250g ricotta
200g 00 flour
100g grated parmigiano reggiano or grana padano
50g lacinato kale/cavolo nero, boiled and chopped
1 egg
nutmeg, salt, & pepper, to taste
First, boil the kale until soft. This should take roughly 5 minutes. Drain well, and then finely chop. Do not blend completely in a food processor; it’s best to do this by hand with a knife.
Next, combine all ingredients in a large bowl. Mix with a wooden spoon until the dough starts to clump together. Turn the mixture out onto a wooden board and knead by hand until the dough is well incorporated. Do not over work - we want the flour to become hydrated and the dough to be homogenous, but we do not want to strengthen the gluten too much. If needed, sprinkle flour on your board to keep your hands from sticking, but keep in mind that the dough should be quite soft and tender.
Finally, on a well floured board, roll sections of the dough out into thick ropes. Use a bench scraper or knife to cut into pieces no longer than 1 inch. You can cook the gnocchi like this, or roll them on the back of a fork or on a wooden gnocchi board to create ridges. Be gentle when rolling the gnocchi. The dough is soft, and too much pressure can squash them and ruin the shape.
Cook in plenty of salted water, until the gnocchi float to the surface. These gnocchi go well in a simple tomato sauce, or with butter and more grated cheese.
